BUYING A USED CAR

BUYING A USED CAR

Because new cars are expensive, most people find

themselves in the market for a used vehicle when they need

wheels. And buying a used car isn't easy; you want to get the

best car you can for the best deal you can. Read on to find

out how you can handle your used car purchase.

CHECKLIST OF QUESTIONS TO ASK ON THE

TELEPHONE:

Why are you selling the car?

How long have you owned it?

Does it need any repairs?

Is there any rust on the car?

CHECKLIST OF ITEMS TO LOOK FOR BEFORE YOU

TEST DRIVE:

Rust, holes, gunk in tailpipe

Mismatches in paint (may indicate a past accident)

Tires in poor condition, uneven tread wear

Door locks work without sticking

All headlights and other lights work

Upholstery not sagging

Suspension doesn't sag

CHECKLIST OF THINGS TO WATCH FOR ON THE ROAD:

Clutch doesn't slip or make any noise

Exhaust pumping out black or blue smoke

Emergency brake holds on hill

Make sure the car doesn't pull to one side, i.e., that the

wheels are properly aligned

Make sure steering doesn't wander or make noises

Accelerate on a hill to determine engine

strength

CHECKLIST FOR THE MECHANICAL TEST

Engine system, compression, spark plug reading, fuel pump,

ignition, oil condition

Electrical system, wiring, alternator, regulator, air conditioner

Brakes, lining, pads, drums

Driveline, transmission, universal joints

Suspension, shocks, springs, ball joints, wheel balance of

Frame and body, check for rust and evidence of structural

damage.

WHAT IS THE CAUSE AND THE CURE FOR:

WHAT IS THE CAUSE AND THE CURE FOR:

STRANGE NOISES; CAR STARTS, BUT

STALLS; CAR DOESN'T START

Anyone who owns a car knows they're not foolproof mechanisms; they sometimes break down. Being able to diagnose a problem and to cure it can make your life a lot easier.

If your car is making strange noises, this could originate in several different parts. There may be a problem with your valves; check all parts relating to oil and check the valves. You may have a problem with the connecting rods; check all parts relating to oil, check the bearings, crankshaft and connecting rods. Or the strange noises may be caused by the main bearing; in this case check all parts relating to oil and check the bearing and crankshaft.

If your problem is that your car starts and then stalls, you car may be suffering from one of a few problems. Check the carburetor to make sure it is getting an adequate fuel supply. Clean your spark plugs; dirty ones may be causing the problem. And perhaps you need to replace a worn distributor wire or worn distributor rotor. A faulty coil can stop your vehicle engine from turning over. Also, faulty ignition wiring should be replaced.

If your car just won't start, your problem may be with a faulty battery. Test your battery and either recharge or replace it. Remember that loose or corroded battery connections may also be keeping your car from starting properly. Clean and tighten them.

Knowing how to diagnose these problems may save you some time, concern and money in the long run. Taking the mystery out of your car's engine, knowing how to handle little problems, can make motoring much more of a pleasure.

SEVEN TIPS FOR CAREFREE BOAT

SEVEN TIPS FOR CAREFREE BOAT

TRAILERING

1.Make sure when you are buying a boat, that you get a

minimum of 13 inch wheels and a drive on trailer. Most

people spend 10,000 bucks for their boat and 300 on their

trailer. You can't enjoy the boat when you always are having

trouble transporting or loading it. Spend at least a $1,000 for

a good trailer. Ask around - talk to people before buying.

2.If you already have one of those trailers that's a pain to load

your boat on, think about making some guide on's for it. Two

2x4's five feet long covered with carpet attached to 4 inch

angle iron bent to attach to the trailer frame will cost about 50

bucks to make and install. Make sure before mounting them

that your boat is on trailer correct, then mount them carpeted

surface first flush against the side of your boat. This way your

boat will automatically center itself as you drive on the trailer.

3.If your boat is light in weight, small tires less than 13 inches

will probably do. I would carry a spare anyway, but if you have

a heavy boat with small tires, care two spares. Check your

air pressure often, inflate to maximum load pressure. At any

sign of abnormal wear, get them off the trailer and check for

the reason.

4.Always! Always! Put bearing buddy's on your trailer (big or

small) and also install bearing buddy caps to keep the

grease from being thrown all over your wheels.

5.Always carry a set of spare wheel bearings. Frequent

grease with Lubriplate-Auto/Marine-Lub 'A' - Part number

12298 (tube type). This fits into the heavy duty 3-way lever

grease gun, made by Lubrimatic Products Co., Omaha, NE

68110. Since I started using buddies with this grease,

greasing about every 3 trips, I've never (knock on wood) had

any trouble. I haul a bass boat several thousand miles each

year.

6.If you are using a truck type vehicle with a bumper ball to

haul your boat, may I suggest having your ball welded to the

bumper. Also weld your bumper to the frame of your truck.

My trailer and boat kept working my ball loose. It also kept

pulling my bumper down crooked in relationship to my

bronco. So I had it welded. I also had them weld a couple

large links of heavy chain to my bumper about a foot on each

side of my ball sticking out from under the bumper. This was

for the safety chains I installed on trailer. In case something

broke, I would not lose the trailer.

7.Get a bigger winch, with a strong nylon strap and replace

the small one. Trailers don't come with ones large enough to

do the job right.

FREEBIE: I extended my trailer tongue by three feet using

the next size up square steel tubing. This allows me to keep

my feet dry during launching and also allows me to use

shallow ramps better.

Make sure you put some sticky back rubber matting on it so

you won't slip. This can be purchased at most good boat

dealerships. Remember if you extent your trailer tongue you

will have to swing wider on right-hand turns!!

TROUBLESHOOTING ONE-CYLINDER

TROUBLESHOOTING ONE-CYLINDER

ENGINES

Living on a farm, homestead, or just a small country estate,

we often find much of the repair work falls on us. Home

repairs, appliances, and oh Lord, that ever-present one-

cylinder engine.

One-cylinder engines are most common in sizes from 2 to 12

horsepower, carrying with it the same basic characteristics

of any gasoline engine. Trouble-shooting the one-cylinder,

however, is somewhat different from the 4, 6, or 8-cylinder.

When larger engines (those in autos with 4 or more

cylinders) are having problems, they will usually run. Not

always smooth, but they run. The one-cylinder, when

something is wrong, may not even start, let alone run. For

that reason the one-cylinder engine is a harder one to

trouble-shoot.

Trouble-shooting the small engine, if you know how, can save

you quite a bit of your hard earned cash. Usually when one

doesn't start we buy a tune-up kit when it needs nothing more

than a new plug. Worse yet, the plug may just need cleaning.

If we decide something is wrong withe the carburetor we

usually buy a new one. Needless to say, much of the work

and expense that goes into the repair of a small engine is

unnecessary. We work by trial-and-error until we've spent the

price of a new engine and then take it to a mechanic who

works on it for 20 minutes and charges us for a full

hour at $24 per hour or more - just for labor!

Another important thing to remember about a small engine if

you live close to a small town is it's sometimes a hard one to

get repaired. Even though there are more mechanics today

specializing in small engines, there are still towns that don't

have a single small engines mechanic. Auto mechanics

usually don't work on lawn mowers or power chain saws.

There are only two things that a small one-cylinder engine

must have to run. It must have an adequate supply of fuel,

and the fuel must be getting into the engine. Then there must

be an adequate supply of ignition spark. These two points

are known to mechanics as "gas and fire".

First, let's take a closer look at the gas. Before you go a

single step farther, find the air adjustment valve on the

carburetor. Turn the screw to the right as fall as it will go. Now

turn it back to the left 2-1/2 turns. If the carburetor works

function at all, it'll work right there.

To test to see if the carburetor is getting gas, remove the air

breather. Set your troddle of choke (or start) and pull the rope

starter. Look into the top of the carburetor. If gas is visible it

is unlikely that the problem is with the carburetor. If you think

the problem might still be gas, try this one. Using the palm of

your hand, cover the opening on top of the carburetor. Pull

the rope starter again. Pay close attention (by feel) which

way the air is going through the carburetor. Is it sucking your

palm into the carburetor or is it trying to blow it out? If it

blows, you have problems with your valves. Chances are one

of them is burned and will need replacing - a charge of $100

or more if you take it to the shop but less than $20 if you do it

yourself.

The next point to check if the engine still isn't running is the

fire. The fire consists of the coil (or magneto), the breaker

points and the plug. A coil will usually outlive the engine

twice-over. The points and plug, however, are a different

story. They usually need replacing at least one a year - call it

an annual tune-up.

To check the points in the engine, remove the plug wire. Hold

it with insulated pliers about 1/4 inch from the end of the plug.

Pull the rope starter. If the points are breaking properly, you

will be able to see the spark as it jumps from the wire to the

plug. If no fire is seen, replace your points.

When you check the wire, there might be a spark coming to

the plug. If it is getting to the plug, it is possible that it isn't

getting through it. Remove the plug from the engine. Put it

back on the plug wire and pull the rope starter. Be sure the

plug is grounded against the engine. If no fire is visible

coming from the end of the plug, replace the plug with a new

one.

The small engine is popular all over the world and will be with

us for many years to come. You would do well to learn to fix it.

HOW TO STOP OIL BURNING IN YOUR CAR, TRUCK, BOAT OR TRACTOR!

HOW TO STOP OIL BURNING IN YOUR CAR, TRUCK, BOAT OR TRACTOR!

Keep Old Cars Running Long Past Their Prime

Thanks for ordering this report. It was a wise decision. Now, in all probability, you won't have to junk that "old friend". You won't have to pay $500 to $740 for major repairs or a new engine.

You're about to discover an amazingly easy, economical and effective way to stop your car or truck from burning oil; to restore compression and end plug fouling!

Before getting down to the "1-2-3's", let be tell you about my experience and what led to the publishing of this little-known information.

Less than a year ago I bought a "cherry" 1967 Chevy half-ton - a one owner Camper Special that had always been garaged and used solely for recreation. The chrome glistened, the upholstery looked new. The original paint still gleamed with nary a dent or ding. It had all the "goodies" - air conditioning, tranny cooler, even a 110 volt converter for powering appliances while camping.

The odometer read 68,678 miles, and as wear was minimal on the brake and accelerator pedals, I believed the numbers. The owner was buying a new truck and asked only $850. I promptly paid without quibbling, figuring I had a real buy. Drove my bargain about 600 miles and it used very little oil. But, the engine was running a bit rough. Time for a tune-up.

The analyser showed average-good compression except for one "low" cylinder. "You're getting close to 70,000 miles," the mechanic remarked, "and about due for a valve job. It's a good investment for a truck in this shape." I agreed.

Paid him $150 for the valve job and the fun began. For the first 20-30 miles I rejoiced in my "new truck" smoothness and power. Then, I noticed that I was being followed - by billowing clouds of blue-gray smoke! I went back to the shop. Carburetor may be out of adjustment? No such luck.That smoke was burning oil. The mechanic stared at the engine and scratched his head. Finally, he pointed at the 110 volt converter. "I got a feeling," he said, "that there is the culprit. Your engine's got lot more miles on it than you think. They guy you bought it from probably ran the engine plenty

while the truck sat, generating juice for his TV, lights, chain saw, you name it."

What happened was, the increased compression resulting from the valve job, forced the oil past the worn rings, creating a real "Old Smokey!" Drove it that way for a few weeks, but I was burning a quart of costly oil every 200 miles and getting cross-eyed, looking for (and trying to avoid) cop cars.The plugs fouled so fast that the whole rig shuddered and bucked like a goosed bronco, just a few miles after installing a fresh start.

In short, I was in the position you are now... owning a basically good vehicle you want to keep. I, too, was unwilling to pay the cost of the usual remedy, or buy a new car or truck at today's inflated prices. Like you've probably done, I went to an auto supply store and wistfully read the labels on additive cans that promised to stop oil burning. Picked one up and walked over to the clerk.

"This stuff any good?" I asked. He, more honest than sales oriented, replied: "Dunno. Never heard of it really working." I walked out without buying.

Couple of days later, trailing my usual cloud of smoke, I stopped at a small gas station-garage at the edge of town. The owner, a thin elderly fellow in grease-splotched bib coveralls, walked over while I was hosing-in gas.

"Nice lookin truck," he commented. I nodded. "Saw your smoke,'" he added. "Thinkin of rebuilding the engine?" I replaced the hose in the pump and turned around. "Maybe later," I shrugged, figuring he was trying to drum up some business. "Costs too damn much."

He grinned. "Twenty bucks sit favorable?"

"For what?"

"Fixin what's wrong. Go get a cup of coffee down the street. It'll be in good shape when you get back."

"You've got to be kidding!"

He wasn't. Told me he had been a mechanic for nearly 40 years and had rebuilt countless engines.

But, for the past year or so, since learning of a new product and devising his own technique for using it, he wasn't doing much rebuilding. "Gettin too old," he complained, "to keep tearin engines down and puttin em back together."

Twenty minutes later, I drove out "memorizing" some instructions. My smoke plume soon,disappeared and the engine ran progressively better. Almost immediately oil consumption and plug fouling stopped. Today, nearly 15,000 miles later, I still don't add oil between changes and you never heard a better running old truck! Now, here's the "Secret Technique" that venerable master mechanic revealed to me, which you can easily do yourself:-

First, check for and correct any oil leaks around valve covers and oil pan. Tightening bolts may do the trick. If not, install new gaskets or have the work done. (This procedure won't stop leaks.) If front or rear engine-bearing seals leak, add a can of "Bearing Seal Additive" after Step #2. Chances are it will stop or vastly minimize the problem at low cost. (It did for me.) Okay, here are the 3 Steps:-

1.Drain engine oil and replace oil filter. You've probably been using a multi-grade 10-30 or 10-40 weight oil. Or a straight 30 weight oil. Regardless, replace that oil with one grade heavier, single-weight of oil. During warm months, use 40 weight; in the winter (depending on how far the mercury dips in your part of the country) use 20 or 30 weight. Slightly thicker oil won't hurt that worn engine, and if your battery is good, it'll turn over fast.

2.Add two cans (30 ounces) of Alemite CD 2 for Oil Burning, which replaces one quart of the

oil you would normally use during an oil change. (If capacity with new filter is less than 5 quarts, use one can of the Alemite.)

3.Drive vehicle at town-speed, 20 to 35 miles per hour, for at least 50 miles (a 100 mile distance is better), before opening it up to expressway speeds. That's all there is to it!

Steps #1 and #3 are the real secret, assuring success when the "usual" additive treatment helps little if at all. Here's why, as my mechanic friend explained it to me:-

The Alemite contains a substance that builds-up between ring and cylinder wall, forming a tough, long-lasting seal. Problem is, standard 30 weight (in moderate clime) and multi-grade oils are too thin; they don't have sufficient "body" to prevent most of the sealer from blowing past rings BEFORE it can do its job. A heavier, single weight oil retards the blow-by and speeds-up the seal formation.

Driving at moderate speed for the first 50 miles or so, also helps accomplish fast seal build-up. Use a heavy foot on the accelerator immediately after treatment, and the fast-moving pistons pump much of the oil and sealer out the tail pipe.

The sealing compound, after setting-up, isn't as hard as steel. So, to prevent seal from deteriorating, add one can of the Alemite when changing oil thereafter. You might get away with going back to a thinner or multi-grade oil. But, why bother changing a winning combination!

My success wasn't a "fluke" or something possible only with my type or make of vehicle! I was so delighted with results that I talked a friend into trying the same remedy. He owned a 1976 Pontiac Grand Prix, a real "Oilcoholic" with more than 120,000 miles of hard driving and lousy maintenance.

He dropped from an oil consumption of a quart every 300 miles, to zero oil burning. One of his co-workers, impressed with the "born-again behemoth", bought a clean classic - a '65 Mustang Fastback with a real tired engine - for very little money. Using this procedure, he sold it at a handsome profit!

Soon, as the good news spread, I received reports of many successful applications - on foreign and domestic four-bangers, boats, even a couple of diesel-powered farm tractors. That's when I decided to advertise this "know-how" in a small way.

Incidentally, I have no connection with the Alemite company, nor is this report based on any "lab tests". All I know is that this method worked great for me, my friends, their friends, and a bunch of others. I can't see that there's any "risk" involved, but my lawyer insists I put this in:- The Seller of this information assumes no liability or responsibility for any vehicle damage resulting from the use of said information, because of factors beyond Seller's control. Use at your own risk."

Look at it this way. You didn't pay $3 for a "testimonial." You invested a small amount for information that can save you hundreds of dollars. Your present car or truck can now provide you with many months, or even years, of additional service... postpone the need to buy a new vehicle, for a long time to come.

Alemite CD 2 for Oil Burning usually retails for around $2.25 per 15 ounce can; Engine Bearin' Seal, for about $2.50 for 15 ounces. Both products are widely sold at supermarkets and of course, auto supply stores.

A SIMPLE METHOD OF SELECTING THE

A SIMPLE METHOD OF SELECTING THE

RIGHT OCTANE FOR YOUR CAR

You May Be Spending Too Much on Gas!!

Your gasoline bill may be too high if you are using fuel with a higher octane rating than you need.

The best way to make sure you are probably using the right octane rating for your car is simply to check your owner's manual. But still, this rating may be higher and more expensive than your car really needs. The following simple method will help you select the right type of gas for your car.

First, make sure your car is in good running order. Have it tuned up by a competent mechanic.Now fill your tank up with the gas you usually buy, the grade specified in the owner's manual. Warm the engine up by driving a few miles and come to a complete stop. Now accelerate hard.

If you hear the engine knocking or pinging, this gasoline is not the right kind for your car. Use up the tank and the next time you fill up, buy the next higher grade. Repeat the acceleration test. If the engine doesn't ping this time, this is the octane you need. If it still pings, you should see your mechanic.

If on your first acceleration test, your engine did not knock or ping, you can fill your car up the next time with the next lower grade of octane. Repeat the acceleration test. If the engine begins knocking or pinging, this gas is inadequate for your car's needs; go back to the octane specified in the owner's manual. But if the engine doesn't knock, you're safe to use the lower grade octane.

Now you're sure you are using the right grade of octane for your car. You can expect top-notch performance from your car and more years of service.It is good to remember that sometimes as a car ages, octane requirements may change. Check that you are using the right octane every once in a while. Carrying heavy loads and driving in extremely cold conditions may also affect your required octane rating.

Glove Box Tips from Ted the Technician

Glove Box Tips from Ted the Technician

How to Communicate for Better Automotive Service

Today's cars, light trucks, and sport-utility vehicles are high-tech marvels with digital dashboards, oxygen sensors, electronic computers, unibody construction, and more. They run better, longer, and more efficiently than models of years past.

But when it comes to repairs, some things stay the same. Whatever type of repair facility you patronize--dealership, service station, independent garage, specialty shop, or a national franchise--good communications between customer and shop is vital.

The following tips should help you along the way:

Do your homework before taking your vehicle in for repairs or service.

Today's technician must understand thousands of pages of technical text. Fortunately, your required reading is much less.

Read the owner's manual to learn about the vehicle's systems and components.

Follow the recommended service schedules. Keep a log of all repairs and service.

When you think about it, you know your car better than anyone else. You drive it every day and know how it feels and sounds when everything is right. So don't ignore its warning signals.

Use all of your senses to inspect your car frequently. Check for:

Unusual sounds, odors, drips, leaks, smoke,

warning lights, gauge readings.

Changes in acceleration, engine performance, gas mileage, fluid levels.

Worn tires, belts, hoses.

Problems in handling, braking, steering, vibrations.

Note when the problem occurs.

Is it constant or periodic?

When the vehicle is cold or after the engine

has warmed up?

At all speeds? Only under acceleration?

During braking? When shifting?

When did the problem first start?

Professionally run repair establishments have always recognized the importance of communications in automotive repairs.

Once you are at the repair establishment, communicate your findings.

Be prepared to describe the symptoms. (In larger shops you'll probably speak with a service writer/service manager rather than with the technician directly.)

Carry a written list of the symptoms that you can give to the technician or service manager.

Resist the temptation to suggest a specific course of repair. Just as you would with your physician, tell where it hurts and how long it's been that way, but let the technician diagnose and recommend a remedy.

Stay involved... Ask questions

Ask as many questions as you need. Do not be embarrassed to request lay definitions.

Don't rush the service writer or technician to make an on-the-spot diagnosis. Ask to be called and apprised of the problem, course of action, and costs before work begins.

Before you leave, be sure you understand all shop policies regarding labor rates, guarantees, and acceptable methods of payment.

Leave a telephone number where you can be called.

A Word about ASE

Perhaps years ago, a shade-tree mechanic whose only credentials were a tool box and busted knuckles was enough. But today's quality-conscious consumers demand more.

The independent, non-profit National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence (ASE) conducts the only industry-wide, national certification program for automotive technicians.

Consumers benefit from ASE's certification program since it takes much of the guesswork out of finding a competent technicians.

ASE certifies the competency of individual technicians through a series of standardized specialty exams (brakes, transmissions, engine repair, ect.)

ASE CERTIFIED

We employ technicians certified by the National institute for AUTOMOTIVE SERVICE

EXCELLENCE.

Let us show you their credentials

Certified technicians are issued pocket credentials listing their area(s) of expertise and usually wear blue and white ASE shoulder insignia, while employers often post the ASE sign on the premises.

There are over a quarter million ASE technicians at work in every type of repair facility.

This publication has been reviewed by the Environmental Protection Agency. Distribution of this document does not constitute or imply EPA endorsement of any ASE service.

National Institute for

AUTOMOTIVE SERVICE EXCELLENCE

13505 Dulles Technology Dr.

Herndon, VA 22071

------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------

Don't Leave It To Chance!

Choosing the Right Repair Shop for Your Vehicle

Glove Box Tips from

Ted the Technician

EPA

National Institute for

AUTOMOTIVE SERVICE EXCELLENCE

Choosing the Right Repair Shop

No matter what you drive--sports car, family sedan, pick-up, or mini-van, when you go in for repairs or service, you want the job done right. The following advice should take much of the guesswork out of finding a good repair establishment.

I. Preliminaries

Don't just drop your vehicle off at the nearest establishment and hope for the best. That's not choosing a shop, that's merely gambling.

Read your owner's manual to become familiar with your vehicle and follow the manufacturer's suggested service schedule.

Start shopping for a repair facility before you need one; you can make better decisions when you are not rushed or in a panic.

Ask friends and associates for their recommendations. Even in this high-tech era, old-fashioned word-of-mouth reputation is still valuable.

Check with your local consumer organization regarding the reputation of the shop in question.

If possible, arrange for alternate transportation in advance so you will not feel forced to choose a facility solely on the basis of location.

Once you choose a repair shop, start off with a minor job; if you are pleased, trust them with more complicated repairs later

II. At the Shop

Look for a neat, well-organized facility, with vehicles in the parking lot equal in value to your own and modern equipment in the service bays.

Professionally run establishments will have a courteous, helpful staff. The service writer should be willing to answer all of your questions.

Feel free to ask for the names of a few customers. Call them.

All policies (labor rates, guarantees, methods of payment, etc.) should be posted and/or explained to your satisfaction.

Ask if the shop customarily handles your vehicle make and model. Some facilities specialize.

Ask if the shop usually does your type of repair, especially if you need major work.

Look for signs of professionalism in the customer service area: civic and community service awards, membership in the Better Business Bureau, AAA-Approved Auto Repair status, customer service awards.

The backbone of any shop is the competence of the technicians.

Look for evidence of qualified technicians, such as trade school diplomas, certificates of advanced course work, and ASE certifications--a national standard of technician competence.

III. Follow-Up

Keep good records; keep all paperwork.

Reward good service with repeat business. It is mutually beneficial to you and the shop owner to establish a relationship.

If the service was not all you expected, don't rush to another shop. Discuss the problem with the service manager or owner. Give the business a chance to resolve the problem. Reputable shops value customer feedback and will make a sincere effort to keep your business.

A Word about ASE

Perhaps years ago, a shade-tree mechanic whose only credentials were a tool box and busted knuckles was enough. But today's quality-conscious consumers demand more.

The independent, non-profit National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence (ASE) conducts the only industry-wide, national certification program for automotive technicians.

Consumers benefit from ASE's certification program since it takes much of the guesswork out of finding a competent technicians.

ASE certifies the competency of individual technicians through a series of standardized specialty exams (brakes, transmissions, engine repair, ect.)

ASE CERTIFIED

We employ technicians certified by the National institute for AUTOMOTIVE SERVICE EXCELLENCE.

Let us show you their credentials

Certified technicians are issued pocket credentials listing their area(s) of expertise and usually wear blue and white ASE shoulder insignia, while employers often post the ASE sign on the premises.

There are over a quarter million ASE technicians at work in every type of repair facility.

This publication has been reviewed by the Environmental Protection Agency. Distribution of this document does not constitute or imply EPA endorsement of any ASE service.

National Institute for

AUTOMOTIVE SERVICE EXCELLENCE

13505 Dulles Technology Dr.

Herndon, VA 22071

------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------

Don't Get Stuck Out In The Cold

Getting Your Vehicle Ready for Winter

Glove Box Tips from Ted the Technician

EPA

National Institute for

AUTOMOTIVE SERVICE EXCELLENCE

Getting Your Vehicle Ready for Winter

Mechanical failure--an inconvenience any time it occurs--can be deadly in the winter. Preventive maintenance is a must. Besides, a well maintained vehicle is more enjoyable to drive, will last longer, and could command a higher resale price.

Some of the following tips can be performed by any do-it-yourselfer; others require the skilled hands of an auto technician.

First things first. Read your owner's manual and follow the manufacturer's recommended service schedules.

Engine Performance--Get engine driveability problems (hard starts, rough idling, stalling, diminished power, etc.) corrected at a good repairshop. Cold weather makes existing problems worse. Replace dirty filters--air, fuel, PCV, etc.

Fuel--Put a bottle of fuel de-icer in your tank once a month to help keep moisture from freezing in the fuel line. Note that a gas tank which is kept filled helps keep moisture from forming.

Oil--Change your oil and oil filter as specified in your manual--more often (every 3,000 miles) if your driving is mostly stop-and-go or consists of frequent short trips.

Cooling Systems--The cooling system should be completely flushed and refilled about every 24 months. The level, condition, and concentration of the coolant should be checked periodically. (A 50/50 mix of anti-freeze and water is usually recommended.)

DIYers, never remove the radiator cap until the engine has thoroughly cooled!

The tightness and condition of drive belts, clamps, and hoses should be checked by a pro.

Windshield Wipers--Replace old blades. If your climate is harsh, purchase rubber-clad (winter) blades to fight ice build-up. Stock up on windshield washer solvent--you'll be surprised how much you use. Carry an ice-scraper.

Heater/Defroster The heater and defroster must be in good working condition for passenger comfort and driver visibility.

Battery--The only accurate way to detect a weak battery is with professional equipment. Routine care: Scrape away corrosion from posts and cable connections; clean all surfaces; re-tighten all connections. If battery caps are removable, check fluid level monthly.

Avoid contact with corrosive deposits and battery acid. Wear eye protection and rubber gloves.

Lights--Inspect all lights and bulbs; replace burned out bulbs; periodically clean road grime from all lenses.

To prevent scratching, never use a dry rag.

Exhaust System--Your vehicle should be placed on a lift and the exhaust system examined for leaks. The trunk and floor boards should be inspected for small holes. Exhaust fumes can be deadly.

Cold weather will only make existing problems worse. A breakdown--never pleasant--can be deadly in the winter.

Tires Worn tires will be of little use in winter weather. Examine tires for remaining tread life,uneven wearing, and cupping; check the sidewalls for cuts and nicks. Check tire pressures once a month. Let the tires "cool down" before checking the pressure. Rotate as recommended.

Don't forget your spare, and be sure the jack is in good condition.

Carry emergency gear: gloves, boots, blankets, flares, a small shovel, sand or kitty litter, tire chains, and a flash light. Put a few "high-energy" snacks in your glove box.

A Word about ASE

Perhaps years ago, a shade-tree mechanic whose only crededentials were a tool box and busted knuckels was enough. But today's quality-consious consumers demand more.

The independent, non-profit National Institute for Automotive Service Evcellence (ASE) conducts the only industry-wide, national certification program for automotive tecnicians.

Consumers benefit from ASE's certification program since it takes much of the guesswork out of finding a competent tecnicians.

ASE certifies the completency of individual tecnicians through a series of standardized specialty exams (brakes, transmissions, engine repair, ect.)

ASE CERTIFIED

We employ technicians certified by the National institute for AUTOMOTIVE SERVICE EXCELLENCE.

Let us show you their credentials

Certified technicians are issued pocket credentials listing their area(s) of expertise and uually wear blue and white ASE shoulder insignia, while employers often post the ASE sign on the premises.There are over a quarter million ASE tecnicians at work in every type of repair facility.

This publication has been reviewed by the Environmental Protection Agency. Distribution of this document does not constitute or imply EPA endorsement of any ASE service.

National Institute for

AUTOMOTIVE SERVICE EXCELLENCE

13505 Dulles Technology Dr.

Herndon, VA 22071

------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------

It's Up to You: Dirty or Clean

Keeping Your Vehicle in Tune with the Environment

Glove Box Tips from

Ted the Technician

EPA

National Institutes for

AUTOMOTIVE SERVICE EXCELLENCE

Keeping Your in Vehicle in Tune with the Environment

Car care is definitely a win-win situation. Besides helping the environment, a properly maintained and operated vehicle will run more efficiently, will be safer, and will last longer--up to 50% longer, according to a survey of ASE-certified Master Auto Technicians. The following tips should put you on the road to environmentally conscious car care.

Keep your engine tuned up. A misfiring spark plug can reduce fuel efficiency as much as 30%.

Follow the service schedules listed in your owner's manual. Replace filters and fluids as recommended.

Check your tires for proper inflation. Underinflation wastes fuel--your engine has to work harder to push the vehicle. Wheels that are out-of-line (as evidenced by uneven tread wear or vehicle pulling) make the engine work harder, too. Properly maintained tires will last longer, meaning fewer scrap tires have to be disposed.

Every ten days, motorists who drive with under-inflated tires and poorly maintained engines waste 70 million gallons of gasoline.

Car Care Council

Keep your air conditioner in top condition and have it serviced only by a technician certified competent to handle/recycle refrigerants. Air conditioners contain CFCs--gases that have been implicated in the depletion of the ozone layer. According to the Environmental Protection Agency, almost one third of the CFCs released into the atmosphere come from mobile air conditioners; some simply leaks out, but the majority escapes during service and repair-so it's important to choose a qualified technician.

Do-it-yourselfers: dispose of used motor oil, anti-freeze/coolant, tires, and old batteries properly. Many repair facilities accept these items. Or call your local municipal or county government for recycling sites. Never dump used oil or anti-freeze on the ground or in open streams.

Each year twenty times the amount of oil spilled by the tanker Exxon Valdez in Alaska is improperly dumped into America's environment by do-it-yourselfers.

Automotive Information Council

Observe speed limits. Mileage decreases sharply above 55 mph.

Drive gently. Avoid sudden accelerations and jerky stop-and-go's. Use cruise-control on open highways to keep your speed as steady as possible.

Avoid excessive idling. Shut off the engine while waiting for friends and family. Today's vehicles are designed to "warm up" fast, so forget about those five-minute warm ups on cold winter mornings.

Remove excess items from the vehicle. Less weight means better mileage. Store luggage/ cargo in the trunk rather than on the roof to reduce air drag.

Plan trips. Consolidate your daily errands to eliminate unnecessary driving. Try to travel when traffic is light to avoid stop-and-go conditions. Join a car pool.

Remember, how your car runs, how you drive it, and how its fluids, old parts, and tires are disposed of all have serious consequences on the environment.

A Word about ASE

Perhaps years ago, a shade-tree mechanic whose only credentials were a tool box and busted knuckles was enough. But today's quality-conscious consumers demand more.

The independent, non-profit National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence (ASE) conducts the only industry-wide, national certification program for automotive technicians.

Consumers benefit from ASE's certification program since it takes much of the guesswork out of finding a competent technicians.

ASE certifies the competency of individual technicians through a series of standardized specialty exams (brakes, transmissions, engine repair, ect.)

ASE CERTIFIED

We employ technicians certified by the National institute for AUTOMOTIVE SERVICE EXCELLENCE.

Let us show you their credentials

Certified technicians are issued pocket credentials listing their area(s) of expertise and usually wear blue and white ASE shoulder insignia, while employers often post the ASE sign on the premises. There are over a quarter million ASE technicians at work in every type of repair facility.

This publication has been reviewed by the Environmental Protection Agency. Distribution of this document does not constitute or imply EPA endorsement of any ASE service.

National Institute for

AUTOMOTIVE SERVICE EXCELLENCE

13505 Dulles Technology Dr.

Herndon, VA 22071

------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------

Don't Get Hung Up In the Heat

Getting Your Vehicle Ready for Summer

Glove Box Tips from

Ted the Technician

EPA

National Institutes for

AUTOMOTIVE SERVICE EXCELLENCE

Getting Your Vehicle Ready for Summer

Summer's heat, dust, and stop-and-go traffic will take their toll on your vehicle. Add the effects of last winter, and you could be poised for a breakdown. You can lessen the odds of mechanical failure through periodic maintenance...Your vehicle should last longer and command a higher resale price, too!

Some of the following tips are easy to do; others require a skilled auto technician.

Getting Started--The best planninG guide is your owner's manual. Read it; and follow the manufacturer's recommended service schedules.

Air Conditioning--A Marginally operating system will fail in hot weather. Have the system examined by a qualified technician.

Cooling System--The greatest cause of summer breakdowns is overheating. The cooling system should be completely flushed and refilled about every 24 months. The level, condition, and concentration of the coolant should be checked periodically. (A 50/50 mix of anti-freeze and water is usually recommended.)

DIYers, Never remove the radiator cap until the engine has thoroughly cooled! The tightness and condition of drive belts, clamps, and hoses should be checked by a pro.

OIL--Change your oil and oil filter as specified in your manual--more often (every 3,000 miles) if you make frequent short jaunts, extended trips with lots of luggage, or tow a trailer.

Engine Performance--Replace other filters (air, fuel, PCV, etc.) as recommended--more often in dusty conditions. Get engine driveability problems (hard starts, rough idling, smiling, diminished power, etc.) corrected at a good shop.

Windshield Wipers--A dirty windshield causes eye fatigue and can pose a safety hazard.

Replace worn blades and get plenty of windshield washer solvent.

Tires--Have your tires rotated about every 5,000 miles. Check tire pressures once a month; let the tires "cool down" first.

Don't forget your spare, and be sure the jack is in good condition. Examine tires for tread life, uneven wearing, and cupping; check the sidewalls for cuts and nicks. An alignment is warranted if there's uneven tread wear or if your vehicle pulls to one side.

Brakes--Brakes should be inspected as recommended in your manual, or sooner if you notice pulsations, grabbing, noises, or longer stopping distance. Minor brake problems should be corrected promptly.

Battery--Batteries can fail any time of year. The only accurate way to detect a weak battery is with professional equipment. Routine care: Scrape away corrosion from posts and cable

connections; clean all surfaces; re-tighten all connections. If battery. caps are removable,check the fluid level monthly.

Avoid contact with corrosive deposits and battery acid. Wear eye protection and rubber gloves.

Lights--Inspect all lights and bulbs; replace burned out bulbs; periodically clean dirt and insects from all lenses.

To prevent scratching, never use a dry rag.

Emergencies--Carry some basic tools--ask a technician for suggestions. Also include a first aid kit, flares, and a flashlight. Consider buying a CB radio.

A Word about ASE

Perhaps years ago, a shade-tree mechanic whose only credentials were a tool box and busted knuckles was enough. But today's quality-conscious consumers demand more.

The independent, non-profit National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence (ASE) conducts the only industry-wide, national certification program for automotive technicians.

Consumers benefit from ASE's certification program since it takes much of the guesswork out of finding a competent technicians.

ASE certifies the competency of individual technicians through a series of standardized specialty exams (brakes, transmissions, engine repair, ect.)

ASE CERTIFIED

We employ technicians certified by the National institute for AUTOMOTIVE SERVICE EXCELLENCE.

Let us show you their credentials

Certified technicians are issued pocket credentials listing their area(s) of expertise and usually wear blue and white ASE shoulder insignia, while employers often post the ASE sign on the premises. There are over a quarter million ASE technicians at work in every type of repair facility.

64 MECHANIC'S WAYS TO MAKE YOUR CAR

64 MECHANIC'S WAYS TO MAKE YOUR CAR

LAST LONGER

Every 2 weeks or 3,000 miles:

1.Check engine oil, transmission fluid and coolant.

Once a month or 1,000 miles:

2. Check tire pressure - with tire gauge.

3. Check transmission fluid.

4. Check brake fluid.

5. Wax car (to protect finish).

6. Check belts and hoses.

Every 3 months or 3,000 miles:

7. Change oil and oil filter (every 6 months or 3,000 miles).

8. Lubricate chassis.

9. Check transmission fluid.

10. Check all drive belts (fan belts) frayed or cracked belts.

Every 6 months or 6,000 miles:

11. Change oil and filter (every 6 months or 3,000 miles).

12. Inspect suspension.

13. Rotate tires.

Every 12 months or 12,000 miles:

14. Flush radiator, replace anti-freeze, check air conditioning

system.

15. Replace air filters.

16. Lubricate chassis.

Every 2 years or 24,000 miles.

17. Replace spark plugs (30,000 miles average suggested

for unleaded gas) and PC valve.

18. Change automatic transmission fluid, filter and pan

gasket.

19. Inspect brake linings.

Every 3 years or 30,000 miles:

20. Check and test ignition wires (replace if needed).

21. Test cooling system and heating hoses (replace if

needed).

22. Check drive belts (replace if needed).

23. Replace fluid in differential and manual transmission.

Every 50,000 miles.

24. Check brake shoes (replace if needed)

25. If you have a major repair to do, it's wise to get at least 3

estimates, if possible, before you decide.

26. Read and follow your car owner's manual - it's your car's

bible for making your car last longer.

27. Whether you are a man, woman, boy or girl, learn to do

some routine maintenance on your car yourself. A multitude

of books, videos, magazines and classes are available at

your local library that will teach you for free if you don't know.

Learn how to check your own oil, transmission fluid, tire

pressure and coolant, etc.

28. If you find a good mechanic who you can trust, stick with

him even if his prices are a bit higher - all things being equal.

You'll always save time, money and aggravation in the long

run.

29. Don't race or gun your engine when you start it up.

Accelerate slowly and smoothly when your engine is cold.

30. Avoid burning rubber - it places excessive wear on the

transmission, rear end, not to mention your tires.

31. An international tire company estimated that 33% of all

tires on the road are under-inflated (low air). Under-inflated

tires wear out quicker and have a tendency to blow out

easier.

32. A garaged car lasts longer. A car port is next best, and a

car cover is a distant third.

33. Avoid jackrabbit starts and stops. Stop and accelerate

gradually.

34. Avoid tailgating, tire squealing turns, flying over speed

bumps, pot holes and revving your engine.

35. When possible, avoid driving your car during rush hour

stop and go traffic periods.

36. Keep front-end aligned, for longer tire life and better gas

mileage.

37. Make sure you get promised repairs in writing including

how much it will cost.

38. Avoid car dealers except to have highly specialized

repairs done that can't be done properly anywhere else.

39. It's hard to be overcharged when you get three estimates

before you have the work done.

40. Beware: Cheapest is not always the best. Normally, the

best mechanics with the best equipment and training cost

more.

41. Often mechanics that charge extremely low prices have

inferior or out-dated equipment, little to no formal training or

are under-insured.

42. Complex electrical problems are so involved that serious

electrical work should be done in an "Auto Electric" shop.

They have the equipment, tool and training to do the job

more efficiently than the average mechanic.

43. If your car has "Cruise Control" use it. Using cruise

control will save you 5% to 10% of a gallon of gas on long

trips.

44. Avoid constantly pressing and releasing the accelerator

when driving. This practise not only wastes fuel, but it puts

excessive wear on the drive train of your car.

45. Don't ride your brake pedal, this wears out your brake

linings pre-maturely, and wastes fuel.

46. Driving with your windows all the way down at higher

speeds, will waste 10% more gallons of gasoline than driving

with them closed.

47. Research by a major car manufacturer has revealed that

neglect of proper routine maintenance is the number one

reason for the enormous increase in car repairs being

required.

48. Tires purchased at department stores such as Sears,

Montgomery Wards, K-Mart etc., can be an excellent value

because many are made by leading tire manufacturers. For

a list of what manufacturer makes which tires for what

department store, write to:

Tire Information Center, P.O. Box 677, Syosset, NY 11791

49. When purchasing or changing tires, make sure you have

them spin balanced.

50. Avoid cleaning your windshield with a dry rag or towel.

Always dampen with water or some other cleaning liquid. Dry

towels grind and scratch your windshield hindering your

visibility.

51. Avoid turning on the car air-conditioning while running at

highway speeds as this tends to put an immediate heavy

load on your compressor and clutch. This could cause

excessive wear and tear on these components. Instead turn

your air conditioner on at car speeds below 25 to 30 m.p.h.

This helps to preserve your expensive compressor.

52. Try to avoid running your car with the tank low on gas.

Keeping a low tank of gas increases the chance of dirt,

water/moisture and rust forming in your fuel system. Keeping

a full tank decreases the chance of dirt and other foreign

matter forming in your fuel system.

53. Tires driven at 70 m.p.h. wear out almost twice as fast as

cars that go 50 m.p.h.

54. A government study has confirmed, the top three causes

of car breakdowns while on the road are: (a) running out of

gas (b) tire troubles (c) cooling system problems

(overheating)

55. The best as well as the easiest ways to find a good car

repair shop is by recommendation or referrals from satisfied

customers.

56. To work on late model computer-controlled engines,

make sure the shop you choose has the equipment to

handlecomputer-electric service/repair. Sophisticated

diagnostic equipment is a must.

57. To choose the right repair shop for you, it's wise to have

a small or minor maintenance or repair job done first to see

how the repair shop and mechanic treat you and your car.

58. Give detailed description of your car's problem when you

take it in for repairs. The more you can describe what your

car is doing or not doing (thumping, squealing, clacking

sound, etc.) the faster and less it will cost for your mechanic

to fix it.

59. When in doubt about the cost of a repair or a mechanic's

honesty get a second opinion. This is one of the best ways to

protect yourself from being ripped-off until you can find a

permanent repair shop.

60. Regular oil changes are the most important thing you can

do to protect your engine and make it last longer.

61. If you have a manual transmission, downshift to slow your

car down instead of using your brakes. This will save wear

and tear on your braking system.

62. Each time you have your engine oil checked, have your

transmission fluid checked also.

63. Protect your car's interior and make it last longer - park

your car in the shade or place a windshield guard or cover in

the windshield.

64. If you spill something inside your car, clean it up

immediately before it dries. Delaying even 30 minutes can

sometimes leave a permanent stain or spot. NOTE: To

better protect your car seats have them treated with

scotchguard.

NOTE: According to current auto insurance statistics, the

average U.S. car's useful life is 10 years or 100,000 miles.

By following proper preventative maintenance you can often

double your car's useful life, and spend less time visiting your

local mechanic.

EIGHTLY USES FOR OLD NEWSPAPER

EIGHTLY USES FOR OLD NEWSPAPER

1.use as umbrella when caught in rain

2.protect carseats from muddy or wet clothing

3.spread over outdoor benches to protect clothing

4.put into loose shoes to tighten

5.stuff in leather shoes to preserve shape

6.stuff in wet shoes overnight to dry and deorderize

7.crumple and place in suitcase for couple of weeks to

remove stale odours

8.use as mat when polishing shoes

9.stuff hats to keep their shape

10.stuff leather handbags in storage

11.wrap around candle bottoms so they'll fit holders tighter

12.store records between sheets

13.use as padding under a table cloth

14.cover store windows when remodeling

15.cover furniture when away on vacation

16.cover furniture when sanding or painting

17.spread on floor underneath rug when shampooing

18.dampen and spread over window-panes before painting

19.use to dry and polish window after washing

20.dampen a bit and use to clean typewriter keys

21.make a hat when painting

22.fold to make a sheath for a knife

23.place in closed windows to eliminate wind rattle

24.stuff under doors and in cracks to stop cold wind from

coming in

25.use as a bounce reflector when taking flash

photographs or use to reflect sunlight into shadow

areas.

26.place a sheet in jar tops to tighten loose lids

27.make unusual lamp shades

28.make dress patterns

29.protect table when children are painting or gluing

30.use as wallpaper for a doll house

31.make paper chain

32.make paper dolls

33.make paper mache handicrafts

34.make kites

35.make party hats

36.occupy children by letting them color and paint the cartoons

37.make a child's play tent

38.use to raise height of child at table

39.use as a stepstool

40.cut out articles and make a scrap book on a specific

subject of interest to you.

41.emergency pot holder

42.use to remove heavy grease from oven

43.emergency dust pan

44.roll, secure in middle with elastic and fringe one end to

use to get rid of cobwebs

45.start fires

46.use as a fan to make fires burn better

47.sharpen pencils by rubbing the point on newspaper

48.muffle a loud alarm clock

49.muffle the sound of a typewriter by using as a mat

underneath

50.place under heavy objects on wooden tables

51.spread out between garden rows to discourage weeds

52.use to wrap greem tomatoes to ripen

53.cover plants during a frost

54.use as a knee pad when gardening or scrubbing floors

55.roll and use as a funnel

56.roll and use as a torch

57.roll and use as a megaphone outdoors

58.use folded sheets as a fan to keep cool

59.use as sun shade at spectator events

60.use as a mat for wet darkroom photographs

61.shred and stuff in vases to help support fresh flowers

62.put under car wheels when stuck in snow, mud or sand

63.line storage boxes

64.line bottom of bird cage

65.line shelves

66.line waste baskets

67.line a pet's sleeping box

68.swat flies with rolled up sheets

69.use to wipe paint brushes

70.use as mat for wet, muddy boots

71.shred and use for packing breakables

72.wrap and store Christmas tree ornaments

73.wrap around ice cream to keep frozen

74.roll around baby bottle to insulate

75.use as a blotter

76.put inside coat for emergency warmth

77.place on top of snow with bird feed on it

78.place on windshield to prevent icing

79.make a litter bag for your car

80.crumple (no colors) and place in plastic containers to

eliminate odors

THE 10 BEST WAYS YOU CAN HIDE YOUR

THE 10 BEST WAYS YOU CAN HIDE YOUR

VALUABLES

Hiding your life's treasures under your pillow or mattress won't safeguard them from a thief.

However, this doesn't mean that a safety deposit box at your bank is the only place for them.

In fact, the traditional approach of keeping one's valuables in the home is an excellent idea, provided they are hidden in really secret places.

The ten following ideas of where to locate a secret compartment will offer maximum security. The first five, because they do require some construction to the house, are better for people who own their own homes. The second five ideas can be effectively used by apartment dwellers or renters.

1.WALLS

because walls are hollow, there can be hidden space behind every wall in every room. the ideal spots are behind solid, fixed items, like coat racks, or boards along closet walls supporting the clothes hanging pole.remove the attachment and hollow out a compartment. make sure you camouflage your handiwork well.

2.BEAMS

ceiling and wall beams are popular architectural features in homes. make one of the false beams (one which doesn't offer much support) moveable, and hollow an opening out of its top or back side.

3.BASEBOARDS

one of the easiest-to-construct compartments is one behind a baseboard. These strips of wood that run along your walls next to the floor are so common, no thief would give them a second glance. choose a short section of board, and carefully pry it away from the wall with a crowbar. now hollow out a hole, and replace the baseboard.

4.PANELING

wall paneling offers a method of opening large areas of dead space your best choice is behind actual boards nailed to the wall individually, not behind the four-by-eight sheets.

5.MIRRORS

for a compartment offering little depth, but a large area of space, you can construct a hollow right behind a full-length mirror on your closet door. hollow out your compartment, then mount your mirror with sliding tabs.

6.FURNITURE

complicated secret spaces built into furniture have for centuries been favorites.a simple approach is to remove the molding of a table or desk, and make a hollow.

7.BOOKCASE

a common source of easily overlooked space is found at the base of a bookcase. The lowest shelf is usually raised above the ground level several inches, and this space is enclosed with a base-molding. if you can make the lowest shelf removable, you can attach your valuables to the underside of this shelf by means of magnets.

8.LIGHT SWITCH

an easy and highly deceptive secret space can be constructed behind an electric outlet plate or light switch plate.make sure the electricity is shut off when you remove the plate to construct your hollow.

9.HOUSEPLANTS

secret compartments can be constructed in the base of your plant pots: this will be especially effective if you have lots of plants. seal your valuables well in plastic if they can be water-damaged.

10.BURIED TREASURE

finally, don't overlook the oldest hiding technique in history, of burying your valuables underground. make sure you have an accurate map of where your treasure is buried. For maximum security in hiding your valuables in your own home, make sure your craftsmanship is flawless. And don't reveal your hiding place to anyone out of your own family

HOW YOU CAN MAKE A SIMPLE TEST WITH

HOW YOU CAN MAKE A SIMPLE TEST WITH

SUGAR FOR THE PRESENCE OF GERMS IN

DRINKING WATER

Put 1 teaspoon of sugar in a glass of water and expose it to the sun for a few days. If bacteria are present it will turn milky.

If it remains clear it is safe for drinking.

YE OLDE AND NEW COLLECTION OF HINTS

YE OLDE AND NEW COLLECTION OF HINTS

FOR HOMEMAKERS

HEALTH AND RELAXATION

Try a cup of baking soda in a Cup of warm water. Relax for

ten minutes or until refreshed.

One tablespoon of baby oil in very warm bath water for

smooth skin. Watch the wrinkles go.

Try a warm bath with feet propped up high for a relaxing

twenty minutes.

Mix dry oatmeal and water into a paste and spread on face.

Lie down and let it dry. Wash off with warm water. Excellent

facial.

Cold Cream on eyelashes and brows keeps soap out of

eyes while shampooing.

For that Bright Eyed look, place cucumber slices on eyelids while relaxing in a hot bath for ten minutes.

Remove gum from hair with nail polish remover, then shampoo.

Cornbread mix spread on face, let dry and wash off with warm water and see how clean your skin looks.

Another refresher... squeeze cotton pads out of ice water, place on eyelids and lie down, elevate feet.

To prevent hair pins from falling out, bend one prong in a "V" about halfway up and insert in hair. It will stay.

Clean your rings with toothpaste and old brush.

Artgum eraser will clean bone colored shoes.

To keep Cold Cream from spoiling and maintain its freshness, keep it in the refrigerator... and it's so cool.

Prevent wrinkled scarfs. Roll and place in toilet tissue cones.

Old lipstick tubes, thoroughly cleaned, are great for purse-sized pill boxes or for pins etc.

White shoe polish will keep a cast clean on broken bones.

Clip on earrings can be used for cuff links or scatter pins.

Cuticle remover will clear hands of nicotine stains.

Ice water and soap to remove ring from swollen finger.

Cut legs off old card table, to about ten inches high. This will make a good table for sick or bed-ridden folks.

Boil pine splinters and sip tea to stop hiccups of long duration.

Use a lazy susan at bedside to enable sick to reach more items.

Old socks worn over shoes on ice helps to prevent falls.

Tape on shoes helps prevent falls on highly waxed floors.

Emergency Sinus Relief - swap white vinegar high up in the nostrils.

Recycle Your Own Paper - Use backs of unwanted advertising mail for scratch paper pads. Roll your newspapers into a tight roll until they are log size, tie with a wire and burn in the fireplace. It will burn like a log, but even longer. Shred all of your newspapers and junk mail and save in a large bag for use in packing materials and for making paper mache items by adding flour and water.

Save cans to freeze leftovers in.

Save plastic bags from bread for freezer use.

Save plastic milk containers, fill with water and freeze. Use in camper iceboxes or coolers. Also these can be used to freeze colored water or juices in for later use in a punch bowl.

Clean vinyl with liquid window cleaner.

Avoid tears when peeling onions, slice first, then slip the bands of skin off.

Use an egg slicer to slice apples or mushrooms.

Leftover pancake batter makes good fried onion rings. Separate and let soak in batter for fifteen minutes. Fry in hot oil.

Loose door knob? Put a drop of shellac in the screw hole, then tighten. It works.

To grow thyme - thyme will grow anywhere, but it prefers a dry, poor soil. If the ground is rich, the plant will become too luxuriant and lose its aromatic qualities.

Very strengthening drink - beat the yolk of a fresh egg with a little sugar, add a very little brandy, beat the white to a strong froth, stir it into the yolk, fill up the tumbler with fresh milk and grate in a little nutmeg.

How to preserve flowers and fruit - Fruit and flowers may be preserved from decay and fading by immersing them in a solution of gum arabic and water two or three times, waiting a sufficient time between each immersion to allow the gum to dry. This process covers the surface of the fruit with a thin coat of gum, which is entirely impervious to the air, thus preventing the decay of the fruit or flower. Roses thus preserved have all the beauty of freshly picked ones, though they have been separated form the parent stock many months.

Household cleaner formula: Soap powder - 2 oz.; soda ash - 3 oz.; trisodium phosphate - 40 oz.; finely ground silica - 55 oz. Mix well and put up in containers. most of the above items can be purchased from drug stores or hardware and paint stores.

Household window cleaner formula: Castile soap - 2 oz.; water - 5 oz.; chalk - 4 oz.; french-chalk -3 oz.; tripoli powder - 2 oz.; petroleum spirits - 5 oz. Mix well and pack in tight containers. Above ingredients can be purchased at local drug, hardware, paint, or nursery stores.

Fire Kindler Formula: Rosin or pitch - 10 oz.; sawdust - 10 or more oz. Melt, mix and cast in forms.

Paint Brush Cleaner - ammonia (household ammonia will do).

Sun Burn Lotion - Peanut oil (buy at grocery store).

Radiator Cleaner - Tri-sodium phosphate (buy at paint store).

Tree Wound Dressing - Lanolin (buy at drug store).

Frosted Window Paint - super saturated solution of Epsom salts.

Mosquito Repellant - Oil of Pennyroyal, rub on skin (buy at drug store).

Furniture polish and cleaner - Vinegar.

Tile Cleaner - Deodorized kerosene (buy at an oil company).

Windshield Anti-fog - Glycerine (buy at drug store).

Label Cement - Egg white is an excellent label cement.

Cockroach Exterminator - Borax (buy at the grocery store).

Ground Mole Control Powder - Black pepper placed liberally in their runs.

Battery Anti-corrode - Vaseline.

Fire Extinguisher - Plain baking soda.

Nail Bleach - Hydrogen peroxide (buy at the drug store).

Type Cleaner - rubbing alcohol (buy at the drug store).

Wonder Car Product - Removes tar, paint, wax gum, etc. Benzol.

Cures Cigarette Habit - Take before breakfast 1/2 teaspoon each of Rochelle Salts and Cream of Tartar, also chew Ginseng root and swallow the juice.

For Great Beauty - drink a teaspoon of Figwort. This will banish every blemish from your skin as it cleanses the blood. Chamomile teas will give one a complexion to be proud of.

SEWING HINTS

Emergency ripped hem repair - use double faced sticky tape between hem and dress.

Bobbins, thread, and other sewing notions can be hung on a bulletin board with straight pins near your machine.

Cut buttons, zippers, snaps, hooks, and eyes from all old clothes and place near your sewing machine. Pin all the buttons that are alike together with a large safety pin. Saves a lot!

Cut the cost of making a round tablecloth by using the fringe from an old bedspread.

To cover unremovable spots on children's clothes, iron transfers of animals, etc. over spots or paint with textile paints. Looks new!

To reline a jacket or coat, use the old lining for the pattern. Spray heavily with starch and press. Pin to the new material for a perfect pattern.

For a matched set of spread and drapes, buy two bedspreads and make a set of drapes from one.

For an attractive eyeglass case, fold a pot-holder and sew up one side and the end.

Worn out tops of little girls slips? Cut off at the waist and insert elastic for half-slip. Also good if she has grown too tall for it.

Use iron-on rug binding on men's trousers to prevent "waist-band curing" of trouser tops. Great for the heavy-set men.

CLOTHING HITS

Footlets twisted twice in arch of foot prevents slipping off.

Use two rubber bands and three safety pins on sliding bra straps. Pin to each strap and in a "V" to center bra.

Use hair spray to stop runs in hose.

Clear nail polish will stop runs in hose and also makes good glue.

Use nylon net to brush lint off dark clothing.

Fold several pieces of tissue, pin through dress with tissues on back to prevent heavy broach from sagging.

Felt markers are good to cover shoe scuffs.

Grease spots which have set, in washable fabrics, can often be removed by rubbing fresh grease on spot and washing immediately.

Healthy Lawn Healthy Environment

Healthy Lawn Healthy Environment

Picture a healthy green lawn: perfect for lounging, great for ball games and cookouts, a real asset to your home. But did you know that your lawn--and how you take care of it--can also help the environment? * Healthy grass provides feeding ground for birds, who find it a rich source of insects, worms, and other food. Thick grass prevents soil erosion, filters contaminants from rainwater, and absorbs many types of airborne pollutants, like dust and soot. Grass is also highly efficient at converting carbon dioxide to oxygen, a process that helps clean the air. *

Caring for your lawn properly can both enhance its appearance and contribute to its environmental benefits. You don't have to be an expert to grow a healthy lawn. Just keep in mind that the secret is to work with nature.

This means creating conditions for grass to thrive and resist damage from weeds, disease, and insect pests. It means setting realistic goals for your lawn, whether you or a professional lawn care service will be doing the work. And if you choose to use pesticides, it means using them with care so as to get the most benefit and reduce any risks.

Caring for your lawn in an environmentally sensible way can have a bigger impact than you might think. Your lawn is only a small piece of land, but all the lawns across the country cover a lot of ground. That means you and your lawn care activities, along with everyone else's, can make a difference to the environment. And that's why taking care of the environment begins in our own backyards.

Working With Nature: A Preventive Health Care Program For Your Lawn

To start, think about lawn care as a preventive health care program, like one you would use to keep up your own health. The idea is to prevent problems from occurring so you don't have to treat them.

As they say, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. A healthy lawn can out-compete most weeds, survive most insect attacks, and fend off most diseases--before these problems ever get the upper hand.

Your lawn care program should be tailored to local conditions--the amount of rainfall you get, for example, and the type of soil you have. The sources listed at the back of this brochure can help you design a lawn care program that suits both local conditions and your own particular needs. But no matter where you live, you can use the program outlined in this brochure as a general guide to growing a healthy lawn.

A preventive health care program for your lawn should have the following steps:

1.Develop healthy soil

2.Choose a grass type that thrives in your climate

3.Mow high, often, and with sharp blades

4.Water deeply but not too often

5.Correct thatch build-up

6.Set realistic goals

7.Develop Healthy Soil

Good soil is the foundation of a healthy lawn. To grow well, your lawn needs soil with good texture, some key nutrients, and the right pH, or acidity/alkalinity balance.

Start by checking the texture of your soil to see whether it's heavy with clay, light and sandy, or somewhere in between. Lawns grow best in soil with intermediate or "loamy" soils that have a mix of clay, silt, and sand. Whatever soil type you have, you can probably improve it by periodically adding organic matter like compost, manure, or grass clippings. Organic matter helps to lighten a predominantly clay soil and it helps sandy soil retain water and nutrients.

Also check to see if your soil is packed down from lots of use or heavy clay content. This makes it harder for air and water to penetrate, and for grass roots to grow. To loosen compacted soil, some lawns may need to be aerated several times a year. This process involves pulling out plugs of soil to create air spaces, so water and nutrients can again penetrate to the grass roots.

Most lawns need to be fertilized every year, because they need more nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium than soils usually contain. These three elements are the primary ingredients found in most lawn fertilizers. It's important not to over-fertilize--you could do more harm to your lawn than good--and it's best to use a slow-release fertilizer that feeds the lawn slowly. It's also important to check the soil's pH. Grass is best able to absorb nutrients in a slightly acidic soil, with a pH of 6.5 to 7.0. Soil that is too acidic can be "sweetened" with lime; soil that's not acid enough can be made more sour by adding sulfur.

Have your soil tested periodically to see whether it needs more organic matter or the pH needs adjusting. Your county extension agent (listed in your phone book under county government) or local nursery should be able to tell you how to do this. These experts can also help you choose the right fertilizer, compost, and other "soil amendments," and they can advise you about aerating if your soil is compacted. If a professional service takes care of your lawn, make sure it takes these same steps to develop good soil. There's no getting around it: your lawn's health is only as good as the soil it grows in.

2. Choose A Grass Type That Thrives In Your Climate

The right type of grass--one that suits your needs and likes the local weather--will always give better results. Grasses vary in the type of climate they prefer, the amount of water and nutrients they need, their resistance to pests, their tolerance for shade, and the degree of wear they can withstand.

If you are putting in a new lawn, it will be worth your while to do some research to identify the best grass type for your needs.

If you're working with an established lawn that fails to thrive despite proper care, you might consider replanting with a different type of grass.

Why struggle to grow grass that's susceptible to fungal disease if you live in a humid climate? Or a water-loving species if you live in an area with water shortages? Grass that is well-adapted to your area will grow better and resist local pests and diseases better.

New grass varieties and mixtures come out on the market every year. Ask your county extension agent or another one of the sources listed in this brochure for recommendations.

3. Mow High, Often and With Sharp Blades

Mowing high--that is, keeping your lawn a bit long--will produce stronger, healthier grass with fewer pest problems.

Longer grass has more leaf surface to take in sunlight. This enables it to grow thicker and develop a deeper root system, which in turn helps the grass survive drought, tolerate insect damage, and fend off diseases. Longer grass also shades the soil surface keeping it cooler, helping it retain moisture, and making it difficult for weeds to germinate and grow.

A lawn's ideal length will vary with the type of grass, but many turf grass species are healthiest when kept between 2-1/2 and 3-1/2 inches. The ruler at the back of this brochure will help the best mowing height for your grass variety. You may have to readjust your mower--most are set too low.

It's also important to mow with sharp blades to prevent tearing and injuring the grass. And it's best to mow often, because grass adjusts better to frequent than infrequent mowing. The rule of thumb is to mow often enough that you never cut more than one-third of the height of the grass blades. Save some time and help your lawn and the environment by leaving short clippings on the grass-where they recycle nitrogen--rather than sending them in bags to the landfill.

You don't have to grow a foot-high meadow to get good results. Just adding an inch will give most lawns a real boost.

4. Water Deeply But Not Too Often

Watering properly will help your lawn grow deep roots that make it stronger and less vulnerable to drought. Most lawns are watered too often but with too little water. It's best to water only when the lawn really needs it, and then to water slowly and deeply. This trains the grass roots down. Frequent shallow watering trains the roots to stay near the surface, making the lawn less able to find moisture during dry periods.

Every lawn's watering needs are unique: they depend on local rainfall, the grass and soil type, and the general health of the lawn. But even in very dry areas, no established home lawn should require daily watering.

Try to water your lawn in a way that imitates a slow, soaking rain, by using trickle irrigation, soaker hoses, or other water-conserving methods. It's also best to water in the early morning, especially during hot summer months, to reduce evaporation. Apply about an inch of water--enough that it soaks 6-8 inches into the soil. Then let the lawn dry out thoroughly before watering it again.

The best rule is to water only when the lawn begins to wilt from dryness--when the color dulls and footprints stay compressed for more than a few seconds.

5. Correct Thatch Build-Up

All grass forms a layer of dead plant material, known as thatch, between the grass blades and the soil. When thatch gets too thick--deeper than one-half inch--it prevents water and nutrients from penetrating to the soil and grass roots. Some grasses tend to form a thick layer of thatch. Overuse of fertilizer can also create a heavy layer of thatch.

You can reduce thatch by raking the lawn or using a machine that slices through the thatch layer to break it up. Sprinkling a thin layer of topsoil or compost over the lawn will also help.

In a healthy lawn, microorganisms and earthworms help keep the thatch layer in balance by decomposing it and releasing the nutrients into the soil.

6. Set Realistic Goals

Setting realistic goals will allow you to conduct an environmentally sensible lawn care program. It's probably not necessary to aim for putting-green perfection. Did you know that a lawn with 15 percent weeds can look practically weed-free to the average observer? Even a healthy lawn is likely to have some weeds or insect pests. But it will also have beneficial insects and other organisms that help keep pests under control.

Also realize that grass just can't grow well in certain spots. Why fight a losing battle with your lawn, when you have other options? At the base of a tree, for example, you might have better luck with wood chips or shade-loving ornamental plants like ivy, periwinkle, or pachysandra. If your climate is very dry, consider converting some of your lawn to dry-garden landscaping. It could save time, money, and water resources.

What Is IPM?

Integrated Pest Management is essentially common-sense pest control. IPM is not a new concept; some forms of it have been practiced for centuries.

IPM involves the carefully managed use of three different pest control tactics--biological, cultural, and chemical--to get the best long-term results with the least disruption of the environment. Biological control means using natural enemies of the pest, like lady bugs to control aphids. Cultural or horticultural control involves the use of gardening methods, like mowing high to shade out weeds.

Chemical control involves the judicious use of pesticides.

IPM is a highly effective approach that minimizes the use of pesticides and maximizes the use of natural processes. Lawn care professionals who use IPM should have a sophisticated understanding of the ecosystem of your turf and the available pest control tactics. Home gardeners can also practice IPM by following the steps outlined in this brochure.

Tips For Using Pesticides

Sometimes, even with good lawn care practices, weather conditions or other factors can cause pest problems to develop. Pesticides can help control many lawn pests. But pesticides have risks as well as benefits, and it's important to use them properly.

The chemicals we call pesticides include insecticides, herbicides, and fungicides. These products are designed to kill or control pest insects, weeds, and fungal diseases. Pesticides can be very effective. But don't be tempted to rely solely on pesticides as a quick-fix solution to any lawn problem.

Serious, ongoing pest problems are often a sign that your lawn is not getting everything it needs. In other words, the pests may be a symptom of an underlying problem. You need to correct the underlying problem to reduce the chance that the pest will reappear.

All pesticides are toxic to some degree. This means they can pose some risk to you, to your children and pets, and to any wildlife that venture onto your lawn--especially if these chemicals are overused or carelessly applied. Pesticides can also kill earthworms and other beneficial organisms, disrupting the ecological balance of your lawn.

Store pesticides out of children's reach in a locked cabinet or garden shed.

When Spraying, Protect your skin, your eyes, your lungs

Wash this clothing separately before using it again.

Before Using Any Pesticide, Be Sure To Review These Basic Rules

1.Take safety precautions. Never assume a pesticide is harmless.

Read the entire label and follow its instructions. Use only the amount directed, at the time and under the conditions specified, and for the purpose listed.

Be sure to wear any protective clothing--like gloves, long sleeves, and long pants--indicated on the label. Wash this clothing separately before using it again.

Keep children and pets away from pesticides, and make sure no one goes on a treated lawn for at least the time prescribed by the pesticide label.

Remember to follow any state or local requirements for posting your treated lawn or notifying your neighbors that a pesticide has been applied.

Store and dispose of pesticides properly, according to the label directions and any state and local regulations.

2.Use pesticides to minimize pests, not eradicate them. The latter is often impossible and unnecessary.

3.Be sure you have accurately identified the pest so you can choose the best pesticide for the job and use it most effectively. Obtain professional advice from your county extension agent or a local expert.

4.Spot treat whenever possible. In most cases, it isn't necessary to treat the whole lawn with pesticides if the problem is confined to certain areas. Spraying more than necessary is wasteful and can be environmentally damaging.

If you have questions about a pesticide, call EPA's tollfree National Pesticide Telecommunications

Network (1-800-858-7378). For general information on minimizing pesticide risks, call or write

EPA for a free copy of the Citizen's Guide to Pesticides. The number to call is 703-305-5017; the address is: EPA, Office of Pesticide Programs, Field Operations Division, H7506C, 401M Street, S.W., Washington, D.C. 20460.

Choosing A Lawn Care Service

Many people choose to hire a professional company to help maintain their lawn. Lawn care companies offer a range of services, from fertilizing and pest control to aerating, mowing, and renovation.

Lawn care companies should follow the same healthy lawn program outlined in this brochure. They should also follow the same precautions for minimizing pesticide risks.

How can you be sure that a service will do these things? Start by asking questions like these:

Q. Is the company licensed?

1.Nearly all states require lawn care companies to be licensed. The qualifications for obtaining a license vary from state to state, but having a license is one indication that the company is reputable and operating legally.

2.Does the company have a good track record?

3.Ask neighbors and friends who have dealt with the company if they were satisfied with the service they received. Call the Better Business Bureau or the state or local consumer protection office listed in your phone book; have they received any complaints about the company? Determine from the state pesticide regulatory agency if the company has a history of violations.

4.Is the company affiliated with a professional lawn care association?

5.Affiliation with a professional association helps members to stay informed of new developments in the lawn care field.

6.Does the company offer a variety of pest management approaches? Does it apply pesticides on a set schedule or only when they are really needed? Does it use integrated pest management, or "IPM"--an approach that often reduces pesticide use by combining it with other, non-chemical methods of pest control?

7.More and more lawn companies are offering integrated pest management (IPM) in response to public concern about pesticides. Be aware that IPM is a general term and that companies may use it to describe a wide range of activities. Find out exactly what a company means if it says it uses IPM.

8.Is the company willing to help you understand your lawn's problems and the solutions?

9.Lawn services generally apply fertilizers and pesticides. But you may be the one who mows and waters--and poor watering and mowing practices can lead to disappointing results. The company should tell you how it plans to take care of your lawn, and advise you about the work you need to do to keep your lawn in good shape.

10.Will the company tell you what pesticides it applies to your lawn and why, and what health and environmental risks may be presented by their use?

11.You have a right to this information. If asked, the company should readily supply it. All pesticides sold legally in the United States are registered by EPA, but such registration is not a guarantee of safety. Ask to see a copy of pesticide labels to make sure they bear an EPA registration number, and to review the directions that should be followed. If the company can't answer your questions about the chemicals it uses, call NPTN (1-800-858-7378) for more information.

For More Information

Affiliated with the Land Grant university in each state is a system of County Cooperative Extension Offices. Usually listed in the telephone directory under county or state government, these offices often have a range of resources on lawn care and landscape maintenance, including plant selection, pest control, and soil testing.

State agriculture and/or environmental agencies may publish information on pests and pest management strategies. The state pesticide regulatory agency can provide information on pesticide regulations, and may also have information on companies with a history of complaints or violations. NPTN (see below) can identify the agency responsible for pesticide regulation in each state.

The National Pesticide Telecommunications Network is a tollfree, 24-hour information service that can be reached by calling 1-800-858-7378 or by FAX at 806-743-3094. The operators can provide a wide range of information about the health effects of pesticides, and provide assistance in dealing with pesticide-related emergencies.

Libraries, bookstores, and garden centers usually have a wide selection of books that discuss lawn care and other aspects of landscape management. Garden centers may also have telephone hotlines or experts available on the premises to answer your gardening questions.

The Environmental Protection Agency can provide information on integrated pest management strategies for lawn care. Write EPA's Office of Pesticide Programs, Field Operations Division (H7506C), 401 M St., S.W., Washington, D.C. 20460.

Some suppliers of lawn care products can provide helpful tips, answer questions, and help identify problems. Look for information/hotline numbers on product packaging.

The Bio-Integral Resource Center (BIRC), a non-profit organization formed in 1978 through an EPA grant, has information on least-toxic methods for lawn care. BIRC's address is: P.O. Box 7414, Berkeley, CA 94707.